Fabric: Thrifted cotton plaid
Pattern: McCall’s 7120, View D
I finally decided it was time to work my way through the Sewing StartUp Library class on Craftsy that I had purchased on sale a while ago, and this McCall’s pattern is the one that comes with the class. When you buy the class, you have to specify which size pattern to purchase, so I looked at the measurements and picked a size L based on the bust. Then I began watching the class and apparently, the big 4 uses a high bust measurement.
Is this some big sewing secret that everyone except me knows? I find no mention of this anywhere – not the sewing blogs I read, or the podcasts I listen to, or even the few links I clicked about measuring yourself. It was also mentioned that indie patterns tend to use full bust measurements. I did eventually find this in a very confusing article about measuring yourself on the McCall’s website. However, I had already ordered a size L when I really needed the medium, which was not in the packet I ordered.
I debated attempting to grade the pattern, but in the end, I decided that I was taking this class to learn more about sewing garments, and to focus on the techniques first, then I would worry about fit. That being said, I found the class highly valuable, even though I know my way around the sewing machine quite well. I was very happy with the dress I ended up with (I even managed to match my plaids pretty well – one side seam is perfect, but the other is off about 1/4″).
The dress is definitely too large though. The style and the belt keep it from being a complete throw away, but it will probably turn into an around-the-house-only dress or a pool coverup. But, for a first dress, not too shabby. And while taking the photos for this post, I discovered that my favorite look is where I moved the belt to create an empire waist (being short waisted, this style is more flattering).
I’ve been sewing for years and just a few weeks ago discovered the high bust measurement used by these companies. I always wondered why my makes were a bit tight in the bust. I guess there are two of us that missed that memo!
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I just recently discovered Fit For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto and it has explained so much about fitting patterns and measurements. Plus the dated pictures are really entertaining.
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Thanks, I’ll see if I can find a copy. It would be nice to overcome some of the fitting issues and also get a good laugh.
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